Few places offer the rare chance to get up close and person with one of the world’s largest known sea creatures: the whale shark. They move close to the Belize barrier reef seasonally and near the full moon in pursuit of spawning snappers, making them ideal targets for observing while they feed. Because we had decided to visit Belize at the serendipitously right time of the month, we decided we’d do whatever it took to get in the water and try swimming with whale sharks.
Little did we know what an adventure we were in for!
(Pssst… just here for the gratuitous whale shark inspiration? We don’t blame you – click on through!)
Boyfriend Perspective: OMG!!! WHALE SHARKS!!!
Swimming with whale sharks and Seahorse Dive Shop
A taxi picked us up at Chabil Mar bright and early to take us to the very end of the Placencia dock. There, we stopped at Seahorse Dive Shop to get our gear and get assigned to a dive boat for the day. After enjoying some time in the sun, we headed out of the Placencia harbor and off towards the barrier reef.
Our guide explained that the barrier reef is a crux where currents meet, meaning that spawning open-ocean fish often get swept near the reef with their predators in hot pursuit. He told us the shop’s tours had had sightings for the past 6 days, so they had high hopes for day 7.
After about an hour of slightly choppy travel, we slowed to a stop to meet up with a small boat of Gladden Spit rangers. They took documentation from our guides, debriefed them on where fishermen had had sightings, and relayed a few warnings to us, which our guides reiterated.
Boyfriend Perspective: WHALE SHARKS!!! I keep saying that. Ahem, yes we must not get too close and absolutely NNNO touchy. It was actually a nice ride out to the reef – sunny and warm, with small islands dotting the blue water as we sped by.
The experience of open water snorkeling to try to swim with whale sharks
We’ve snorkeled on reefs before, and enjoyed it very much. We had not, however, snorkeled in 7-8 foot chop with murky visibility, against a strong current. Plus, our guide could swim like a damned dolphin and kept chiding us for falling behind. (Cue the sputtering and cursing, y’all.)
He explained once we got back on the boat that we had to move quickly to keep up with the scuba divers following a deep current below us. If we followed them, we’d make sure we were close if they saw a whale shark and lured it to the surface with their bubble trails. That didn’t make it any easier, just far more worthwhile.
When the swimming got a little too tough for me, I headed back to the boat to catch my breath. It sure beat continuing to let my snorkel get drowned by waves. At least, for awhile. Once you’ve sat in an idling, unanchored, lightweight boat in the middle of very choppy seas, even the most iron stomach will have a few, uh, solid things to say.
Boyfriend Perspective: I love the water. Born on the east coast, spent many years swimming competitively, been fishing a few times. So I thought I was seasick-immune. I WAS WRONG. The constant up and down of the 7-8 foot waves, in the boat AND in the water, was no bueno. When I got back in the boat, I was coping and managed to keep my breakfast down. Then…
“How you doing, buddy? Did you puke yet?” said our guide.
BLECH
“Yes, yes I did.”
After our first run with no luck, we headed back behind the safety of the reef, dropped anchor, and the guides set about putting lunch out for us. Now, guys, this Southern girl usually loves nothing more than the smell of fried chicken. But when you’re nauseous and trying desperately not to listen to a person on the other side of the boat lose their breakfast, fried chicken smells like poison (understatement).
Boyfriend Perspective: My brain wanted food, my stomach said “ROFL”. The look and smell of food, which on any other day would have been absolutely delicious, almost caused round 2.
I had some rice and a slice of watermelon, but couldn’t handle more. The rest of the boat ate ravenously – cue the jealousy! Interestingly, because the reef houses so many omnivorous species, our guides encouraged us to toss our food leftovers overboard. Seems wrong, right? But turtles, fish, rays, and nurse sharks can all find something to nosh in our leftovers. All plates and utensils, however, went into a trash bag onboard. Then, it was back out into the open water for dives 2 and 3.
Swimming with whale sharks (or trying to) is like playing roulette
Though tours on the previous 6 days had had sightings, we had no whale shark sightings on our first, really difficult run. But did get to see a few wild dolphins and a passing school of jacks. The divers down below had similar luck.
We had two more runs in easier waters – THANKFULLY – and still nothing. Though, on our final swim, I did get investigated by some very beautiful triggerfish 🙂 Our third run also had better visibility than the first two. We were better able to see the divers below us, as well as fish swimming well below us.
Boyfriend Perspective: After let my quesy ass get coaxed into the water by our captain, I took a vest to float on so I could take it easy. BUT I found out that barfing while you’re swimming isn’t easy. Hooray vest!! I’m not sure how I would have kept my head above water otherwise. Back to the boat for some me time, doubled over and wrapped in a towel.
Barfing aside, we even noticed that we were swimming through brief pockets of tiny dead fish. When I asked our guide if some environmental problem had gotten them, he laughed. Then he told us that their species would mate, then die. So, basically, we ran into a tiny boy-fish graveyard. Ahem… I shouldn’t joke.
Anyway, three dives was our max, so the group reluctantly headed back to rejoin Luke in the boat. After all, thanks to the careful patrolling of Gladden Spit rangers, you can only be out in the preserve for so long at a time. But talk about a quiet boat ride :\
The thing is, we knew going in that no one can ever guarantee a whale shark – or any other wildlife – sighting.
The good news? LOTS of people do get to swim with whale sharks in Belize, and in many other places
Including some of our favorite travel bloggers!
“Snorkeling for a glimpse of the biggest fish in a world is a must-do when in La Paz, Mexico. Coming face to face with the whale sharks was an experience of a lifetime!”
- Patricia, Ze Wandering Frogs
“The first time I spotted a whale shark in the wild is had snuck up behind me. When he silently slipped past me grazing me with a fin I nearly drowned from the sheer shock and excitement of the moment! The sheer size of these animals is absolutely humbling and something everyone should experience once in their life!”
- Patrick, The Adventographer
“While venturing around Mozambique we decided we had to give whale shark diving off the coast of Tofo Beach a go. It turned out to be one of the best experiences of our lives! Our morning was spent with tons of whale sharks, giant manta rays, and a hammerhead shark. The best part is there was almost no one else on the water unlike places in Mexico and the Caribbean. Mozambique is a pretty budget destination and for just about $30 this experience cannot be beaten.”
- Natasha & Cameron, The World Pursuit
“Swimming with whale sharks in the wild is an unreal experienced. We went to Oslob after hearing on most excursions snorkelers see up to 10 of these amazing animals on a trip! we were super exited. Unfortunately we did not enjoy what we found in Oslob. Many small boats packed with tourists feeding the whale sharks. This has a negative impact on the feeding, breeding and migration patterns of the whale sharks.”
- Campbell, Stingy Nomads
“When I first started planning a trip to the Maldives I knew there was one thing I absolutely had to do and that was swim with whale sharks.
They do not feed the whale sharks in the Maldives but there is an area that is rich in plankton where the whale sharks can usually be found.
Getting in the water with these gentle giants is such a cool experience and its amazing how fast they are with just one flick of their tale. Such a cool experience.”
- Nicole, Travelgal Nicole
Would we try to swimming with whale sharks in Belize again?
Both of us have made a point of swearing up and down that this will never happen again. Too hard, too sick, too… much.
But here’s the deal. We’ve both talked it over, and have become fully aware that if we ever have the chance to do this again, we 100% will. After all, we came SO CLOSE! And now that we know what to expect, we’ll have an easier time if we try again.
Also, we’ll bring ginger pills and Dramamine. Lots and lots of Dramamine…
Pin it for later!
Bird watching in Belize at Caves Branch Jungle Lodge
You guys should come to Australia! They get them so often on the West Coast that it’s a popular place to dive with them. I’ve spoken to tonnes of people who have had luck there, and it’s all ethically done too! Sorry you didn’t get a chance to see them in Belize but one day you will and it’ll have been worth the wait!
That’s amazing! We both really want to try again, and I never realized Australia had such a great whale shark population. It’s going on the list!! 🙂 Thanks for the info!
Whoa ! very first, i can imagine diving with whales 😀 (Hella scared) but looks like you had great experience. Not sure if i would try this but this certainly gives me some motivation:) Great post. Thanks for sharing.
wow!!! Such a great experience. I had similar experience in Maldives. However, we did not get chance to go that closer to the shark…. Its in my bucket list and after seeing your blog, I am more encouraged…
I’m right there with you. Even though we didn’t have great luck on this particular excursion, seeing other bloggers’ experiences has both of us jonesing to try again!
Hey, we will be in Belize next year, October or November! Which is a better time to swim with whale sharks there?c
Whale sharks are only easy to spot when a certain kind of snapper spawns near the barrier reef. That happens at certain times of year (first half of the year, I think), and is usually synced up with the full moon. If you sign up for updates from whichever tour operator or resort you’ll be working with, they should send updates right around whale shark season so you can plan accordingly 🙂
There are people who will go swimming with sharks and jump off cliffs. And there are people like me. 🙂 But happy adrenaline-boosting adventures to you!!
Hah, whale sharks basically eat tiny fish – they’re zero threat to humans, and don’t require any kind of safety precautions. Huge, shy, and gentle, they’re as close to a baleen whale as a shark can get! Definitely not the same kind of craziness that requires cages and a minor death wish 😉
It would have been so cool to see a whale shark!! But the sea-sickness – nah, I’m gonna pass on that haha.
If we’d only known BEFORE we went, we might’ve passed, too hahah but now we’re hooked on the idea of actually seeing one up close, so it looks like Dramamine is definitely in our future 😉
What a cool adventure! I loved your boyfriend perspective thorughout the post. So typical. LOL The fish graveyard part was pretty fun (though sad). I would never be brave enough to swim with the sharks.
Glad you liked the humor – when you’re that nauseous, sometimes (gentle!!) laughter is the only way to survive!
I get seasick super easy, so I’m not sure this would be the thing for me. That being said, it would certainly be quite an experience to swim with a whale shark. Loved seeing your photos!
One of the divers riding with us said she gets super seasick too, and it was because of her that we tried ginger pills. She said she takes Dramamine in advance, and ginger pills as needed, and it makes her feel like she has an iron stomach. Was nice to hear that there’s a way around feeling so disgusting hah
This is very adventurous as I can’t think of swimming with whales and sharks. I have never done underwater diving but one day will do this to discover the beautiful world under ocean.
This is amazing!!! Definitely an experience I would love to do. I wonder what it will be like to swim near these giant animals!
We’re still left wondering, ourselves, but if the stories we’ve heard from friends and peers are any indication, it’s absolutely unforgettable!