We don’t always defaults to beach vacations, and Luke doesn’t get it. It’s always a city or the mountains, which he’s fine with, but he’s always in search of the whole “toes in the water, ass in the sand” Zach Brown experience. So, when we decided to go back to Puerto Rico, he was stoked. And when we decided to stay IN Old San Juan, he got even more stoked because we’d be super close to some of the best beaches in San Juan. Rum coconuts, better watch out! More importantly, though, Puerto Rico is always a good choice, and staying directly at the center of Old San Juan at La Terraza hotel was an even better choice. It put us just a few minutes from several of the area’s best beaches, and all of them have their own strong points.
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For convenience and solitude: Playa Peña (Pena beach)
On our first full day back on the island, we left our plans wide open so we could wander and enjoy some downtime. So, what’s the first thing we did? We went in search of beach towels, then headed over to Playa Pena. We almost thought Google Maps was lying to us when we walked up to a pretty, scenic overlook and saw nothing but (very lovely, deep) water. Even though we hadn’t found a beach, this still felt like a win because, since this overlook sits right across the street from El Capitolio (The Capital, duh), you’ll find its railings colorfully mosaicked with the crests of each of the districts that make up the island of Puerto Rico. Then, color us surprised when we paced around a little, looking at the crests, and stumbled on some stairs that led down to the beach we had been looking for all along!
If you want an impressively large beach, this won’t really be your jam. Playa Pena is fairly small, with plenty of sand for lounging up by the tree line, and a moderately pebbly water line (so watch your feet!). When we visited in late June/early July, the water felt almost like bath water – soothing, barely cool, and so gentle. I also had the privilege of being “chased” around by several small fish who loved all the stuff my feet stirred up from the bottom – and I had the bonus experience of being able to see them pretty easily through the clear water. And the best part is, we were so close to downtown that we were able to go shower off and explore Old San Juan so easily.
- Distance from Old San Juan: ~15 minute walk
- Nearby neighborhoods or landmarks: While the beach is on the left, you’ll find El Capitolio on the right. And on the other side of the Capital? The Statues of the Presidents along the Paseo de los Presidentes, a series of standing statues of America’s leaders who have visited and impacted Puerto Rico
For families, sunbathing, and gentle waves: Playa Escambron (Escambron beach)
When we decided to head to Escambron Beach, we’d already spent plenty of time in the sun and had concerns about burning. So we both slathered on a generous dose of sunscreen and called an Uber from the historic city center. Knowing we were visiting the only Blue Flag beach in San Juan, proper, we assumed we’d have some lovely, well-kept sun and sand to enjoy, and boy were we right. Also, we discovered that most of the photos we’d seen were not, in fact, photoshopped!
But more than that, if you’re looking for a beach positively alive with color and laughing kids and the smell of portable barbeque grills, this is your spot. For every bit of quiet and isolation we got at Playa Pena, we got bustling families, brilliant murals (on many of the utility buildings), and beautiful views tenfold here.
Plus, you’ll find Third Millennium Park nearby, full of walking and cycling paths, and El Fortin del Escambron (a Spanish battery – small fort – used as part of San Juan’s coastal defense in the 1500-1600s). From its ramparts, you can easily see the entire area, and get the benefit of a wonderful sea breeze. On the other side of the battery, you’ll find a smaller, gentler, shallower lagoon perfect for swimming with little ones. This beach really has something for everyone, and we can’t wait to go back.
- Distance from Old San Juan: ~15 minute drive
- Nearby neighborhoods or landmarks: Just across the footbridge over a neighboring road, you’ll find Luis Munoz park, with everything from a sweet little gazebo to playground equipment, to little hidden benches and even a very perky flock of chickens. Yes, chickens.
Luke Quote: “Meagan, stop following that hen and chick around with you phone trying to take a video. I just… the beach is that way, honey…” ::facepalm::
For variety, water sports, and lovely coconut palm trees: Playa Isla Verde (Isla Verde beach)
Let’s get this out there right now: Isla Verde isn’t just one beach. In fact, it’s several beach sites strung together under one name. Does that make it a beach franchise? Uncertain.
But what IS certain is that it’s stunning. We stayed a short walk from Playa Carolina (or Balneário Carolina) on our first trip to Puerto Rico, and loved the convenience and utter quiet of this beach. You get the perfect palm tree experience without the massive crowds, even though there’s so much to do close to Isla Verde. And what we didn’t know when we first visited was that this is the only other Blue Flag Beach in Puerto Rico convenient to Old San Juan. That explains the well-kept beach, right?
Another benefit to Playa Carolina is that it’s within walking distance of Panaderia Espana, home to one of the best jamon y queso sandwiches – among many, many other delicious things – we’ve had the pleasure of trying.
We unfortunately haven’t spent a ton of time on Isla Verde’s other beaches, El Alambique and Pine Grove Beach, but if you take a look at some of the pictures, you’ll certainly see why they’re on the list to explore and enjoy.
- Distance from Old San Juan: ~20 minute drive
- Nearby neighborhoods or landmarks: Panaderia Espana is right across the street – it doesn’t get much better than that!
For shopping, luxury, and beach views: Condado
Condado is likely where we’ve spent the least time – which is somewhat amusing, considering it’s where a large majority of visitors (for business or pleasure) opt to stay. I mean, hey, no judgment, we just prefer the vintage charm and bustle of Old San Juan. By contrast, in Condado, the high-rise hotels are luxurious and modern, and there are tons of new restaurants and shopping areas to satisfy the desires of anyone’s wallet. And the views of the water can really be quite stunning, especially at sunset.
The beach itself is a bit rocky as you get down toward the water, but its convenience for folks staying in the area is unmatched. Plus, you can easily rent chairs and umbrellas, and even enjoy drinks service on the sand. Though it’s definitely on the touristy side of things, if you’re looking for a more luxe beach experience, this is probably going to be your beach of choice.
- Distance from Old San Juan: ~15 minute drive
- Nearby neighborhoods or landmarks: Since Condado puts you so close to the neighborhoods of Santurce, definitely get out and explore the area’s legendary street art. Better yet, take a walking tour through AirBNB with one of our favorite guides!
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Visiting a Virginia tulip farm for the Burnside Farms tulip festival
