When we told friends that we planned to spend 5 days in Iceland, they were excited for us. When we told them that we were planning an Iceland winter visit for 5 days, they thought we’d lost our minds. After all, “ice” is in the name, right? So who wants to go somewhere that cold? Um, that’d be us. We do. Especially when it’s so stunningly beautiful. This was our first BIG trip as a couple, and we learned so much about each other and about traveling to cold weather locations, that it actually helped inspire us to become travel bloggers. Who knows, maybe you’ll find your calling on this trip, too! So read on to get prepped for your first Iceland winter visit!
*Note that there may be affiliate links in this post. What this means: when you click on a link, you may be taken to a page where, if you purchase, we’ll get a small payment in return. This has no impact to you, but helps us keep the lights on 🙂 That said, all opinions are our own, and we received no discounts in exchange for our reviews.
Table of Contents
9 best things to do in Iceland in winter
- Eat skyr! (That’s real Icelandic yogurt, and it puts Chobani to shame.)
- Horseback riding in Reykjavik.
- Glacier walk.
- Chase waterfalls.
- Hold your nose and experience a real geyser.
- Enjoy hot tub culture.
- Bathe in natural geothermal springs.
- Hunt the Northern Lights.
- Drive the Ring Road and the Golden Circle.
Where to stay in Iceland
If you have any doubts about where to stay in Iceland, absolutely stay in Reykjavik, especially on your first trip. It’s beautiful, packed full of culture and food, and on almost every tour operator’s pickup route. That way, you can let guides show you the most stunning parts of the country and you won’t have to fiddle with Google Maps and driving a stick shift car in sudden snow. Plus, did you know that they actually pump hot water under many of the city’s sidewalks so they don’t ice up as easily? Cool, right?!
Getting around Iceland
Y’all, we were dumb and didn’t rent a car in advance. RENT A CAR IN ADVANCE. Iceland has all the major international car rental chains located in Keflavik airport, so you can pick up your wheels when you land. You can also rent from SADcars Iceland, which takes older and more well-loved vehicles and rents them by the day at a lower price than competitors. Their pickup office sits right down the road from Keflavik, and they’ll meet you at the arrivals gate to shuttle you over. SADcars also seasonally installs winter tires on all of their vehicles, so you’ll be safe to drive regardless of the season.
Things to know about driving in Iceland
- Just like the USA, drive on the right side of the road.
- Because it’s an import, fuel is expensive. When we last visited, gas was the equivalent of about $6-7 USD per gallon, and we weren’t in the midst of any sort of oil conflict or global gas shortage. Be sure to choose your vehicle and your route with your budget in mind.
- Wind is no joke. While there are inland mountains, much of the Icelandic landscape is fairly flat, meaning that wind can really pick up. When we picked up our rental car, one of the attendants told stories about other visitors not heeding the weather forecast and getting blown off the road, particularly near the coast.
- Watch the weather. If you have a TV, turn it on to a local news station in the morning, or keep an eye on websites like safetravel.is. That way, you’ll know in advance of any ice, snow, or other inclement conditions that might impact your plans or your safety on the road.
What to wear in Iceland in winter
In a word? LAYERS. Iceland in winter is cold (in the 20-40F range), windy, and often wet. So, we both packed on the layers to make sure we didn’t freeze. In general, make sure you have a rain jacket or other waterproof wind layer, warm insulation, a hat or other head covering that protects your ears, and ideally merino wool base layers top and bottom. And don’t forget waterproof winter boots!
Iceland trip cost / Is Iceland expensive?
Oh man, is Iceland expensive? Think of it this way. Iceland is an island, and one that isn’t conducive to growing many kinds of food that most Westerners find “normal.” So, when it comes to produce, everything is either greenhouse grown (expensive) or imported (also expensive). Even for processed food that’s imported, you’ll notice a giant markup – like the equivalent of $9 US for a box of Cheerios! Fuel is imported, so that’s not cheap, either. And because the cost of living is so high, you’ll find that reflected in many of the gift shops’ and other stores’ prices, as well. So, while flights and accommodations may be affordable, just know going in that the majority of your Iceland trip cost will be made up of food.
Want a great place to see the Northern Lights? Iceland!
Because the population density is so scarce, and because of the island’s latitude, Iceland’s Northern Lights season can be spectacular. Peak viewing season is between September and March because the nights are so long, meaning that your winter getaway to Iceland will likely be topped by some beautiful skies. And the good news is that there are tons of reputable, local companies that will guide you to your best possible Northern Lights experience. While we didn’t have the good fortune of having skies clear enough to see the aurora on our winter escape, we certainly look forward to a wonderful Northern Lights Iceland tour on our next visit!
Putting the ICE in Iceland: Visiting Iceland in February
Iceland weather in February
Everyone says that Iceland and Greenland should have had their names swapped. For 3/4 of the year, that’s probably true. In the middle of February, though, that naming committee was right on the money. If you love a good, cold day, this is absolutely the winter destination for you. While Reykjavik doesn’t typically see a lot of snow accumulation (due to how windy the coast tends to be), we did have anything from a few flurries to a full-blown snowstorm each day we were there. Outside the city, we had similar experiences – driving the Ring Road, we had several strong flurries, caught a heck of a snowstorm near Gullfoss, and we got to go horseback riding near Reykjavik in a surprisingly “deep” (for Reyk, anyway) 5” of snow. Don’t worry, though. Winter daylight hours may be shorter this far north, but you’ll also get plenty of days with aesthetically-pleasing clear or partly cloudy skies to enjoy the scenery.
In general, expect weather in the 20s-40s F, with noticeable wind and changeable but likely precipitation at some point each day.
5 days in Iceland itinerary
Day 1: Arrival, Blue Lagoon, check in to accommodations/pick up groceries, exploring and dinner
Good news: Keflavik airport isn’t one of those scary, giant mazes that pass as airports. There’s a respectable selection of restaurants, and finding your way in and out is fairly easy. Plus, all the signs are in English, so English-speaking visitors have a leg up! As with most airports, the arrivals gate lets out just in front of the rental car counters, so you can get yourself sorted and on the road as quickly as possible. Since we (whoops) didn’t go that route, we called SADcars from the terminal and they swung by to pick us up and shuttle us over to their pickup location nearby. Once we had our car, we drove along a 4 lane road that cut through lava fields interspersed with spring-fed pools. Honestly, it felt like we were driving on Mars.
Shortly thereafter, we arrived at the famous Blue Lagoon. The spa also offers a shuttle to and from the airport for those who need it, along with secure luggage storage for weary travelers. We had made reservations in advance, but our car drama had set us back an hour. Happily, we were still able to get our robes, slippers, and locker keys and head back to get changed.
Now, we’d heard a lot of things about the Blue Lagoon, but here’s our hot take: if you’re expecting some Instagram-worthy, secluded, brilliant blue, steamy pool, you will absolutely be disappointed. It’s still Insta-worthy, blue, and very steamy, but it’s a VERY popular place for visitors, so you’ll be sharing space with a lot of other people. As long as you expect to hear lots of talking, and see a fair number of selfie sticks (we can’t judge… we had one too…), you won’t be disappointed.
The water is a beautiful, cloudy blue, and the warmth and depth both vary depending on where you are in the pool. There’s a cabana on one side that offers really lovely clay masks, and a cabana on the other that offers basic refreshments. Inside, you have nice showers, prep areas, and lockers, as well as seating areas where you can hang out in your bathing suit and robe while enjoying a beverage and some climate control.
We splurged on a spa package, so we got to enjoy an in-water massage (heavenly!) and a late lunch reservation at the onsite restaurant, complete with a glass of champagne. The meal was very tasty, and this visit was the perfect way to sooth our jet lag.
Finally, we decided to drag our tired asses out of the spa, and drove on into Reykjavik to check in to our AirBNB apartment just off of Laugavegur. Once checked in, we headed to the 10-11 grocery store a block or two over to stock up on breakfasts and snacks. At which point, we headed back to the flat to get a bite to eat and immediately pass out.
Day 2: Snaefellsnes Peninsula tour, dinner at 3 Frakkar
The next day, we were up before the sun and walking in heavy snow over to the parking lot for Hallgrimskjirka (the famous church) for our tour pickup. While the tour company we used is sadly no longer in business, there are TONS of amazing and well-reviewed Snaefellsnes small group tours to choose from. The tour we took lasted a full day, and we did everything from drive up the side of a volcanic crater so we could learn about the iron-rich soil and take in almost Martian view, to sitting down at a tiny local restaurant for soup and bread, to rock-hopping along the shore to a soundtrack of crashing waves.
We got to explore Arnarstapi and Hellnar, Londrangar, Djupalonssandur, and more. Plus, Vatnshellir cave is nearby, along with several other small villages and lighthouses, and more beautiful landscapes than you can shake a stick at. Our tour guide actually joked that Iceland had Photoshop installed, so obviously everything was airbrushed and that’s why it looked so good. This part of the island is truly magical, and one we can’t wait to go back to.
Our guide from this trip also introduced our tiny tour group to 3 Frakkar, or “three brothers”, a traditional restaurant in Reykjavik. He helped us order classic dishes from the menu, and watched with amusement as we tried different foods that our American sensibilities weren’t necessarily crazy about. Their menu has everything from “normal” salads to whale steaks (not recommended!), so you can easily choose your own culinary adventure. And boy will you sleep well after all that food and travel!
Day 3: Breakfast at Kaffibrennslan, drive the Golden Circle, dinner at Svarta Kaffid
You can either take one of many locally-run Golden Circle tours, or you can drive yourself and tailor along the way. While we decided to self-drive, we didn’t drive the entire Golden Circle, as we only had a day and wanted very much to explore, so these are some of the highlights.
We drove out to Gullfoss as our first and furthest stop and worked our way back towards Reykjavik. So, we stopped first at Iceland’s most famous waterfall and ended up in the middle of a freak snowstorm that just about froze my hands off my arms…
Boyfriend Perspective: Y’all I went back to the car because I’m not dumb. I saw the size of those flakes and how hard her hair was blowing. Hard. Pass.
…Fine, I did it for the ‘gram. Anyway.
From there, we stopped to see Geysir, a (yes, duh) geyser, erupt right on schedule. Some of the thermal pools nearby had some of the most beautiful colors from all the minerals in the soil and water – they reminded us of geysers in Yellowstone. Just keep in mind that they smell very strongly of sulfur, so… yeah… upside, if the food isn’t agreeing with you, no one will know!
Once back on the road, we were on our way to the Secret Lagoon when I practically yanked the wheel out of Luke’s hand so we could stop on the side of the road. There were HORSES! The iconic Icelandic horses that everyone poses with. No lie, this was the highlight of the trip for me up until this point. They walk right up to the fence to investigate you with almost no fear, and they’re so fluffy in the winter!
Once Luke lured me back to the car, we stopped at the Secret Lagoon for a hot soak in an environment that was the complete opposite of the Blue Lagoon. There were plenty of people, but no crowds, no loud talking, no shiny finishes or luxury. Just a large, steaming pool of what appeared to be totally natural water. It’s even hot enough that we had to take turns hopping up to sit on the edge of the pool to cool our torsos off in the 25F weather. There are more waterfalls, scenic stops, and natural spots to pause on the way back to Reykjavik – read more about how much the Golden Circle really has so much to offer.
Once you’ve had your fill of driving, if you’re still hungry, stop by Svarta Kaffid, on Reykjavik’s Laugavegur, for some of the heartiest, tastiest soup you’ve ever had at the best price you’ll find in the city. This pub-slash-restaurant is tiny and popular, so try to arrive outside conventional dinner hours (4-5, and maybe 8-9) in winter so you’re not stuck in a freezing queue down the block. But rest assured, their soups – spooned into bread bowls from a copper cauldron on the bar – are the perfect antidote to a chilly, windy day.
Day 4: Explore Reykjavik! Phallus Museum, Hallgrimskirkja tour, urban art watch, food tour, and more.
Y’all, food tours are one of the best ways to get to know a community and culture. So. Get up at a decent hour, enjoy some skyr for breakfast, and start your day off with a food tour of Reykjavik. You’ll try soups, different fish, Iceland’s famous multi-meat hotdogs, smoked puffin (we feel incredibly guilty, but it’s really tasty), and even fermented shark, if you’re feeling adventurous. From there, make sure you take a tour and go up the tower of the iconic Hallgrimskirkja church for an incredible view of the city.
By Gerd Eichmann – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0 
By Rob Oo from NL – Pale green, CC BY 2.0
Then, visit some of the more famous places in Reykjavik, like the Phallological Museum (yes, it’s what it sounds like), the National Museum of Iceland, and the Sun Voyager statue. Or, honestly, just browse Laugavegur, the main road through Reykjavik, which is chock full of stores, cafes, dive bars, and everything in between. Plus, the main drag and it’s offshoots are home to some beautiful murals and other urban art that are not to be missed.
Day 5: Sleep in, polish off the groceries, catch a bus to the airport, return home
Since skyr sadly can’t be smuggled home, finish up any that’s left, and get packed. Then, you can take a cab to the bus station for your pre-arranged connection to Keflavik Airport.
If you need a 7 days in Iceland itinerary…
Keep the adventure going on Day 5!
Day 5: Horseback riding outside Reykjavik with Islenski Hesturinn, then get a beer flight and some snacks at Micro Bar
So remember how happy we were to meet Icelandic horses? What’s even better is RIDING Icelandic horses! If you book with Islenski Hesturinn, just on the outskirts of Reykjavik, they’ll pick you up from the city, take you to their barn, and start educating you about this island nation’s extremely special horses. Then, they assess your previous experience with riding, outfit you with any safety gear or other equipment you may need, and match you up with your new, fluffy steed. My guy was stubborn and fiery, and Luke’s steed was content to just give his rider a hard time. We got to experience their special 4th gait, the tolt, and got the added benefit of seeing the city from above, covered in snow. Absolute magic. It was also fabulous that both of our guides took pictures for us, so we didn’t have to worry with fumbling phones or cameras while riding.
Because we’d purchased the Horses and Beer package, our guide helped us wrap up our ride and then dropped us off at Micro Bar back in the city with two cards for a 10-pour flight apiece. Mistakes!! Good news was, we met a very sweet British couple who we had the pleasure of splitting our tasting flights with. All in all, an amazing day neither of us would trade for the world!
Day 6: South Coast tour
While Snaefellsnes in winter is chilly and poetic and Iceland’s South Coast has everything from puffins to glaciers to huge basalt cliffs to pitch-black beaches. In short, it’s not to be missed. We rode down to the coast on a big bus full of tourists which, if we’re honest, isn’t an experience we’re dying to replicate. The tour was very impersonal and lacked the educational component we really enjoy. That said, here’s a list of the South Coast tours we’ll pick from the next time we go back. And hey, the upside is you can’t really have a bad time when you’re surrounded by the kind of epic scenery the South Coast boasts.
Since you’ve already seen Gullfoss, you’ll be prepared for the majesty of big waterfalls like Seljalandsfoss and Skogafoss, as well as smaller ones like Urridafoss. You can also catch a peek at the famous crashed plane on the beach at Solheimasandur, or admire the charming seaside town of Vik. Or journey further down the coast, like we did, to walk on Iceland’s most famous black sand beach, Reynisfjara, surrounded by pounding waves on one side and soaring basalt columns on the other. Fair warning, that black sand gets EVERYWHERE and, unlike regular sand, you can see very clearly just how much is all over your shoes!
From there, you can catch a stunning view from the Dyrholaey peninsula, which provides clear shots of beaches, fields, sea views, and basalt rock formations off the coast further east. And finally, you can stop at Solheimajokull, a glacier on the South Coast, and go for a glacier walk, either hiking right up to the glacier (bring crampons!) or scaling and hiking along the top of the glacier, itself (go with an expert guide who has heavy-duty crampons!).
Day 7: Sleep in, polish off the groceries, catch a bus to the airport, return home
Since we STILL can’t smuggle skyr home… eat, taxi, bus, airport, home. You know the drill!
This Seat’s Taken interview series: Nikita & Harry of Vagabond Stories
