Remnants of Power: Avignon’s Palais des Papes

avignon luke in front of the papal palace

When you drive into the center of Avignon, the Palais des Papes (or Papal Palace) is the first thing you see. And boy, is it a sight. Towering over the main square and all the surrounding streets, it’s everything you expect from a medieval castle: half fortress, half extravagant political residence.

Back in the days when the holiest office in the world was an opulent soap opera as often as it was spiritual, the Papacy left Rome and, finally, settled in Avignon. The result? The city became the beautiful, rich place that we unexpectedly got to explore.

 

The history of the Papal Palace

Rome was antiquity’s Los Angeles with a classic Italian twist: full of egos, cosmopolitan backstabbers, and rival families always out for blood. Since the power of the Papacy often came into conflict with many of these families, it’s no wonder that many Popes took their leave of their traditional home for large portions of their rule. Because of its proximity to Church territory in France, and Avignon’s rule by a faithfully Catholic king, Avignon made a perfect place to call home.

Boyfriend Perspective: I hope they had popcorn for all that drama. I mean have SEEN “The Borgias”?

Nearly a century’s worth of Popes made their mark on Avignon. Construction of the palace began in 1355, and with it, the city grew in population and prestige. This is also when the Pont St. Bénézet began to be refurbished for the first time.

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The palace was the site of growth and wealth, but also became a target for revolutionaries in the 1700s. In the years following, much of the art and beauty of the palace’s interior was destroyed due to the palace’s use as a barracks and prison.

In the early 1900s, the place became a museum, as was restored to as much of its former glory as possible.

Now, it welcomes so many visitors that it’s considered one of the top 10 monuments and museums in France.

Boyfriend Perspective: From posterity to utility to touristy, oh how the mighty have fallen. “Excuse me sir, your ticket!”

^^ this guy, right now!

 

The tour

You can get audio guides for this tour, just as you can for the Pont St. Bénézet, but most of the exhibits also have a copious amount of text, so you won’t miss anything if you don’t fork over the extra couple Euros.

Currently, the palace is a mix of pieces from antiquity, and modern art installations. It can be a little jarring to go from classic marble busts to vague metal sculpture – particularly if you’re not a rabid modern art fan – so just keep that in mind. It’s also worth noting that the courtyard has been transformed with stadium seating and a stage, and that plays are often put on (taking advantage of the acoustics). We didn’t get to partake, but happily would have.

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There are three particularly stunning places in this palace.

– The chapels whose Giovannetti frescoes are still mostly intact – and still vibrant and stunning. They’re the kind of pre-Renaissance art you expect from Catholic opulence. Note that pictures aren’t allowed in these chapels.

– The restored tiled floors and frescoed walls of the Pope’s bedroom. They’re brilliantly colorful, and absolutely breathtaking. Photography also isn’t allowed here.

The grand audience hall. It’s not particularly beautiful in an artistic sense, but the sheer scale of the room, and the height and loveliness of the vaulted ceilings will take your breath away. Photos DEFINITELY allowed and encouraged here 🙂

 

Things to note

BRING YOUR WALKING SHOES. Seriously, this is a HUGE amount of ground to cover and you will be very, very tired after the fact.

Also, when you exit the palace, there’s a wonderful patisserie nearby that we stumbled upon – whether you go for the wine, the bread, or just the cat in a French flag-themed box, make sure you enjoy 🙂

Boyfriend Perspective: This cafe was awesome – had this ‘run by grandma and kids’ feel to it. They had a solid recommendation for a chilled white wine for such a warm day!

Other practical info from the museum.

 

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exploring avignons palais des papes


Also published on Medium.

18 Replies to “Remnants of Power: Avignon’s Palais des Papes”

  1. Ever since I had to memorize “Sur le Pont d’Avignon” in French class, I’ve wanted to see it, and I still haven’t been there, so thanks for this post. Being France, yes of course there’s a place to get a pastry and a glass of wine right outside.

    1. It’s a lovely city well-worth visiting 🙂 Hope you get to make it there someday!

  2. I’m with the boyfriend – I love the run by grandmas and kids feel as well. 🙂 Looks like you had a great time. Happy Travels.

    1. They really did provide a wonderful experience. The older lady behind the counter was very no-nonsense, but also very sweet and accommodating when a bird with exceptionally good aim targeted my blouse while we were enjoying our wine. Definitely a family feel 🙂

  3. The Papal Palace looks massive and beautiful. This place looks like a perfect getaway. Thanks for sharing.

    1. It is, and it is! It’s a great place to get better acquainted with this period of French history, without the crazy crowds 🙂

  4. The palace looks amazing, really filled with history. It’s nice when places have a family run feel to them as well!

    1. They’ve done such a lovely job preserving what was left of the palace’s interiors, and also adding some lovely modern updates that keep folks coming back. And as far as Avignon in general, you really can’t go wrong 🙂

  5. Loved this! We’re actually planning a trip to France in May, and will definitely keep this in mind. Can’t wait to check out your other France posts, too!

    1. Ahh! That’s awesome! I hope you love every second. If there’s anything we can help with or experiences we can share, just let us know 🙂

  6. Ha ha loved the Boyfriends comments 🙂 . looks like you guys had a great time !

    1. I’m glad you enjoy his commentary as much as I do 😉 we definitely did – thanks for stopping by!!

  7. Looks like you had a great visit! I love visiting historic sites like this one, they just seem to breathe history.

    1. They really do! Learning about a place’s history through places like this is both fun and poignant. It’s always interesting to me to know that these important figures in history once walked the same floors I’m standing on.

  8. My walking shoes are ready! Papal Palace would be the first stop on my list. Stunning photos, thanks for sharing 🙂

    1. Thank you for your kind feedback – I’m so glad you enjoyed! 😀

  9. Avignon is one of those cities where we have visited time and time again when visiting France from Australia. We just love it here. The palace is incredible isn’t it. We spent a while here on our last visit. I particularly loved the kitchen – so grand ! I would have loved to have cooked up a feast here. It’s such an imposing builiding too isn’t it. Amazing how big these places are in Europe.

    1. It’s one of those places we definitely want to go back to, as well. Just as you say, the palace is so very impressive, which is remarkable when you consider how much of the interior has fallen prey to the ravages of time (and anti-Catholic sentiment). Can’t wait to head back the next time 😀

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